Laman Kreatif Kluang, Johor

The trend of street art and murals that began in George Town, Penang has now reached the south of the peninsula!

Taking the cue from the success of George Town and Ipoh, the municipal council of the town of Kluang has also spruced up one of the back lanes in-between two rows of shop-houses with street art in order to attract tourists to the town. Called Laman Kreatif Kluang, this backlane is sandwiched at the rear of two rows of shop-houses and runs parallel to both Jalan Dato' Kaptain Ahmad and Jalan Dato' Teow Siew Khor.

After cleaning up the backlane and upgrading the infrastructure, volunteers and artists were given free rein to decorate the rear walls of the shop houses with fun art. While probably not to the level of acclaim given to some of the street murals in George Town, it is still an interesting walk along the lane to look at the creativity of some of the art.

Laman Kreatif Kluang.

One of the murals, highlighting the multi-racial character of Kluang.

This boy squats precariously on the water pipes.

Black and white murals.

Chinese village house scene.

The town of Kluang is of course named after the flying foxes or bats that were previously common in the surrounding area. Some of the murals give homage to the town name with illustrations of bats.

Batman climbing up a downpipe. Why bats? Kluang means bat in malay.

A big truck in Johor colours cleverly painted around the corner edge of a shophouse.

 As you walk along the lane, you will notice pigeons congregating on the rooftops. They will swoop down and feed when some of the shop owners put out food for them to eat.

Pigeons in flight.

Kluang is also famous for its Kluang Coffee, and one of the 3-D art painted on the road is a painting of a cup of the brew. People will of course take the obligatory photo of standing or sitting in the coffee cup.

Kluang coffee.

Kluang is of course a rail town as well. It is believed there has been a malay village here since 1910 and the British in 1915 set it up to act as an administration centre for Central Johor. The Kluang train station is located right in the town, and an important stop of the West Coast Railway back in the day.

This rail heritage is celebrated with a 3-D image of a KTM train emerging from a tunnel, painted onto the road.

The iconic 3-D art of a KTM train emerging from a tunnel.

Unlike in say Ipoh's Concubine Lane, a lot of the shop-owners have possibly not realised the potential of utilising their rear doors to capitalise on the tourists walking along the backlane.

However one chinese kopitiam called Tan Li Sheng has put out tables and chairs on the lane early in the morning to serve breakfast. A great idea, it feels authentic to eat a breakfast of soft-boiled eggs, toast with coconut jam (kaya) and kluang coffee sitting under the open sky in the morning hours.

Breakfast in the back lane.

Malaysian breakfast of soft-boiled eggs and coffee.

Location of Laman Kreatif Kluang, marked in red.

Laman Kreatif Kluang is a good attempt by a small town to encourage tourism to its vicinity and also create an interest in art among its population. If you are in the area, why not drop in and take a stroll?

KL Forest Eco-Park, Kuala Lumpur

Bukit Nanas, which means "Pineapple Hill", is the last remaining virgin tropical jungle located in the centre of Kuala Lumpur city. Located on a small hill, it is now surrounded on all sides by major roads and high-rise buildings.

Originally known as Bukit Gombak, its story its very much tied to the history of Kuala Lumpur itself. Kuala Lumpur began when Raja Abdullah, a member of the Selangor Royal Family and Chieftain of Klang, hired chinese prospectors to venture upstream from Klang to open new tin mines in the Ampang area. Eventually mines were successfully set up in Ampang; however the tin ore had to transported downstream and supplies and provisions brought upstream by boat.

So, in 1857, a settlement was founded at the confluence where the Gombak and Klang rivers met, the nearest convenient point where boats could disembark to service the upstream tin mines of Ampang. This muddy confluence of course became the settlement of Kuala Lumpur, which is now the capital city of Malaysia.

To strengthen his control over Kuala Lumpur, Raja Abdullah sent his lieutenant Syahbandar Yaseh to establish a garrison in the area. Syahbandar Yaseh selected Bukit Gombak as a base to build his stockade.

Some time later, an incident occured whereby a villager of the Sumatran Batu Bara ethnic community was killed by someone in Yaseh's Bukit Gombak's garrison. Raja Abdullah refused to punish his ethnic Bugis men of the garrison for the crime, which angered the Batu Bara community.

Incensed, the Batu Bara headman Mohamad Akib gave his backing to Raja Mahadi, a rival of Raja Abdullah, to support Raja Mahadi should he attack Raja Abdullah. And so, the seeds of the Selangor Civil War, were sowed at Bukit Gombak.

Raja Mahadi attacked Raja Abdullah in his stronghold in Klang. Mohamad Akib was killed in the battle, and Raja Abdullah evacuated and retreated to Melaka, where he later died. In 1867, Raja Mahadi took control of Klang. Raja Abdullah's son Raja Ismail attempted to take back Klang but was unsuccessful.

In 1868, the Sultan appointed his son-in-law, the Kedahan prince Tunku Kudin to attempt to mediate between the Raja Ismail and Raja Mahadi factions. However, Raja Mahadi flatly refused Tunku Kudin's mediation attempts. Offended by Raja Mahadi's rebuff, Tunku Kudin chose to side with Raja Ismail.

In 1870, Raja Ismail with the help of Tunku Kudin, attacked and besieged Klang; and this time was successful. Raja Mahadi then fled to the stronghold in Kuala Selangor. This lasted only until 1871, whereby the British used the excuse of pirate attacks in the Straits of Melaka by Raja Mahadi to attack and capture Kuala Selangor from Raja Mahadi who then fled. The British handed over control of Kuala Selangor to Tunku Kudin.

In 1872, the exiled Raja Mahadi gained support from Mandailing chieftains Raja Asal and Sutan Puasa, and launched a new attack on Bukit Nanas, now under the control of Tunku Kudin. Bukit Gombak had been renamed Bukit Nanas as apparently pineapples had been planted around the stockade as a form of deterrence to potential attack. Raja Asal attacked the garrison and Tunku Kudin's forces at Bukit Nanas were decimated and Kuala Lumpur razed to the ground, and its Kapitan Cina Yap Ah Loy fled to Klang.

The Selangor Civil War would continue on until 1874, with Tunku Kudin eventually becoming victorious with the help of Yap Ah Loy's men and an army from Pahang as well as the backing of the British. Raja Mahadi was defeated, and fled to Johore, where he died in Singapore in 1882.

The Selangor Civil War and other conflicts like in Larut, were the catalyst for the British to interfere and engage in local affairs; and set into motion the beginning of British Administration in the Malay states. In 1875, the Selangor Sultan accepted James Guthrie Davidson as the first British Resident of Selangor.

As for Bukit Nanas, in 1909 the British administration gazetted 17.5 hectares of land as a forest reserve and named it after Sir Frederick Weld, who had been the Governor of the Straits Settlements. Known then as the Bukit Weld Forest Reserve, it is the oldest forest reserve in the country.

After Malaya's independence from the British and the formation of the Federation of Malaysia, the name of Bukit Weld reverted to its previous name of Bukit Nanas. Development has chipped at the edges of the Forest Reserve and today only 9.3 hectares remain.

In 1996, the Kuala Lumpur Tower was built on top of the hill to serve the telecommunication needs of the city, as well as a tourist attraction. At 421 metres in height, it is one of the tallest freestanding telecommunications tower in the world.

The Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve has since been renovated and renamed as the KL Forest Eco Park. One of its new attractions when it was re-opened in November 2015 was the Canopy Walkway. Besides the Canopy Walkway, there are also trails through the forest which you can walk through.

The Jalan Raja Chulan entrance to the park.

There are various ways to enter the Park, either from the KL Tower up-top; or the entrance gates at Jalan Raja Chulan or Jalan Ampang. The Raja Chulan entrance is the main entrance and also houses a Forest Information Centre with a small gallery.

Visiting hours of the Information Centre.

The gallery is a small one with a few exhibits, and is not really a must-see, but it is air-conditioned and free to enter. There is a small play area for kids as well.

Exhibits at the Gallery.

At the side of the building, steps lead up into the actual park itself. Again there is no longer any fee to enter the Eco-Park.

Steps leading into the park.

You will see a signboard showing you a map of the park. The longest trek would be to go through the park and exit on the other side where Jalan Ampang is. Alternatively you can just hike up to the KL Tower.

Map of the Eco-Park.

Further on, pass another building, you will see the trail-head, marked by an archway with the words "Canopy Walkway".

This archway signifies the start of the Trail.

Steps lead upwards until you come to an intersection. Going straight on will lead you upwards until you reach the KL Tower up top. Taking the left turn will lead you to the Canopy Walkway. It doesn't really matter which path you take, as both lead to the same place up top.

The intersection.

If you take the left intersection, you will almost immediately come across this tower structure. Climb up, as this is the start of the Canopy Walkway.

Canopy Walkway Tower.

Climbing up entails going up a spiral staircase. Please note that there is no disabled access. At the top, you will get a view of the forest canopy as well as the towering buildings of Kuala Lumpur in the background.

View on top of the platform tower.

You can then walk along the canopy walkway, from one platform tower to the next, until you reach the top of the hill.

The walkway.

Walk from platform to platform.

The views are nice, a mix of green of the foliage and the buildings in the background.

The walkway spans over an access road leading up from Jalan Bukit Nanas.

Eventually you reach the KL Tower entrance to the Park.

At the end of the Canopy Walkway, you will find yourself at the top of the hill, where the KL Tower is located, with all of its side attractions. Stop for awhile to admire the view of the Tower.

KL Tower.

You can then either explore the KL Tower, or continue on the trail towards the Jalan Ampang entrance or do as we did and go back down to the Jalan Raja Chulan entrance.

The trailhead back down to Raja Chulan.

You could take the Canopy Walkway back down, but we decided to take the forest trail instead. A short walk down the steps will eventually lead you back to the intersection where you took the left turn earlier.

Steps back down the forest trail.

The KL Forest Eco-Park is a small compact park, which is useful for tourists who wish to get a taste of what a rainforest looks like, without having to go out of Kuala Lumpur. Of course being in the heart of the city centre, you will hear traffic noise and see buildings all around, which may take away a bit of the experience, but it can still make an enjoyable visit especially in combination with the KL Tower.

Canopy Walkway, KL Forest Eco Park

Address: KL Forest Eco Park, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur.
Opening Hours: 7am to 6pm daily
Admission: Free

Sam Poh Tong, Perak

Gunung Rapat is a limestone hill located 7km to the south-east of Ipoh, which is riddled with caves. Over the years, many of these caves have been turned into temples by devotees. Some of the cave temples located here include the Kek Look Tong, Miaw Yuan Chan Lin, Kwan Yin Tong, Da Seng Ngan, Lin Sen Tong, Nam Thean Tong and of course the Sam Poh Tong temple.

Sam Poh Tong can be translated as the Cave of the Triple Gems. While the origin of the name is unknown; it probably does not refer to actual jewels or treasures; but probably the Triple Gems of Buddhism, the Buddha, the Dharma and the Sangha.

Some accounts say that the cave was discovered in 1890 by a passing monk from China. The monk decided that the cave was a good place for him to meditate and so he made the cave his abode. The monk lived there for the next 20 years until he eventually passed away. Subsequently it is said that a temple was founded at the site of the monk’s cave in 1912 by local devotees. Sam Poh Tong is thus said to be one of the earliest Buddhist cave temples in Ipoh.

Entrance to the Sam Poh Tong grounds. Beggars and hawkers selling water spinach ("kangkung") to feed the turtles.

In front of the temple is a striking rock garden in an ornamental koi pond. Stone lanterns and sculptures decorate the rock garden, and while you initially may not pay too much attention; upon closer inspection of the rock garden, you will notice intricate miniatures of pagodas and other decorations amongst the rocks. The overall effect is quite pleasing to the eye, evoking mountainous landscapes like something out of China. A plaque on site states that the garden won the award of the best landscaped garden in Malaysia in 1993.

The rock garden.

Stone lantern.

Buddha in a cave.

Koi swimming in the pool.

Statue.

Miniature bridge.

Miniature pagoda.

A "floating" pavillion sits on one side of the ornamental pool. Two dragon heads survey the scene set before them.

Floating pavillion.

Dragon surveying his domain.

The temple grounds also include a vegetarian restaurant, a crematorium and a columbarium. 

Once you have finished exploring the grounds, you can make your way to the entrance to the actual cave temple.

Ceremonial archway into Sam Poh Tong.

The cave entrance is surprisingly small.

Once you enter the actual cave, you will actually be surprised by how small it actually is. The cave has also essentially been tamed; the floors have been concreted and tiles; and the walls and ceiling have been plastered.

Laughing Buddha.

Steps lead upwards from the main cave.

A staircase leads upwards to the right of the main altar. You can climb up these steps to get to the upper chamber.

Icons in glass cabinets.

At the top of the staircase is the upper chamber where there are more buddhist icons in glass cabinets. You can also peer down to the lower chamber from here.

Steps lead down from the upper chamber to the outside.

From the upper chamber, you can climb more steps which will lead you to a barricaded opening with steps leading up the mountain. From behind the bars, you can see that the steps are overgrown with shrubbery and not maintained. Some old descriptions of Sam Poh Tong mention that you can climb 246 steps to an open cave with a commanding view of Ipoh. Perhaps these are the steps in question?

Since you cannot continue up, another doorway leads down and out to an open terrace facing the front of the cave. From here you can see the back of the ceremonial arch and the temple grounds.

View of the back of the entrance arch.

After peering out to see the view, you can walk back to see one last chamber, also blocked off with a barricade. At the time of our visit, the door was open, and we walked in to see this many armed statue.

The final upper chamber.

Inside is this many armed statue.

Once done, make your way back down to the main cave, walk pass the Laughing Buddha altar, and you will come to another altar.

Another altar.

Once pass this altar, a passageway leads off to the right. Follow this passageway until you reach the end, where a surprise awaits you.

Passage leading to the hidden valley.

At the end of the passageway, natural light floods in, and you will see that you are inside a hidden valley completely encircled by the limestone hills. The only way in and out of this hidden valley is by the passageway you came in through.

Icons in the hidden valley.

Inside the hidden valley is a tortoise pond. People will feed kangkung, or water spinach bought from the hawkers outside, to the turtles for merit-making.

Turtle Pond

Unfortunately, the turtles in the turtle pond do not seem to be living in hygienic surroundings and are fenced in. Perhaps the temple management could see how to improve their living condition.

Besides the turtle pond, there is also an abandoned pagoda in the valley. The gates are barricaded and you cannot enter; but its presence gives the valley an eerie and mysterious appearance.

Abandoned Pagoda.

Curiously there is a statue of a Roman-like figure in front of the temple, not something you would expect in a Buddhist temple!

Surreal and desolate.

Sam Poh Tong is especially packed during Ching Ming when relatives of the deceased come to pay respect to their ancestors. Relatives leave behind food and offerings to their dearly departed. However at other times, Sam Poh Tong seems forlorn and quiet. 

There is a general air of neglect and decay that pervades the atmosphere of the temple; as if there is no longer any will to upkeep and maintain the temple grounds. Stray dogs wander the grounds and beggars line the gates. Some areas of the temple are barricaded off from entry and appear run-down. This is a pity, as Sam Poh Tong has a lot going for it if it is well-maintained. Hopefully the caretakers will take note and do something to return Sam Poh Tong to its heyday.

Sam Poh Tong

Address: Sam Poh Tong, Off Jalan Sultan Nazrin Shah, 31400 Ipoh, Perak.