Penang Hill, Penang

Penang Hill is the highest point on the island of Penang and offers spectacular views of George Town, the eastern coast of the island and the mainland across the channel.

Originally established by the British as a colonial hill station during the time of their rule in Penang, it allowed them to escape and retreat up to the cooler climes away from the chaos, heat and humidity of George Town.

The Hill was first opened up in 1788 by the creation of a horse trail up from the Waterfall Gardens (the present day Botanical Gardens). The way up was by the "doolie" system, where the colonial masters were carried up on special sedan chairs.

Eventually in 1901, the construction of a funicular railway was initiated in order to ease access to the peak. Although completed in 1905, this first railway was largely useless as it could not be used due to technical problems.

A second railway was commissioned in 1909 and finally completed in 1923. The funicular railway was officially opened by Sir L.N.Guillemard on 1st January 1924. The railway is today still the primary way for people to go up and down the hill. It starts from the Lower Station located at Air Itam and goes up all the way to the Upper Station non-stop. 

Although the funicular railway today is non-stop, along the way it does pass by other stations such as the Middle, Claremont, Moniot, Viaduct, Lower Tunnel and Upper Tunnel stations, which are largely no longer in use.

The only other way to get up the hill (other than hiking) is the "jeep track" that runs 5.1km from the Botanical Gardens up to the top. It is actually a tarred road, however it is only open to residents of the Hill. The "jeep track" itself is popular amongst hikers as a way up or down the Hill.

Penang Hill itself actually comprises of several hills including Strawberry Hill, Fern Hill, Halliburton Hill, Flagstaff Hill, Government Hill, Tiger Hill,and Western Hill. The highest point of this range is at Western Hill, with an elevation of 833m (2,723ft )above sea level. Flagstaff Hill, the most developed of the hills, has also become the malay name for Penang Hill i.e. Bukit Bendera.

Getting to the funicular railway Lower Station at Air Itam can be accomplished by either taking a taxi from George Town or by taking the RapidPenang bus 204 which terminates at the lower station.

The Lower Station is still housed in the original 1923 building although it has been modernised and extended. From the station you can see the railway line climbing straight up the hill behind the station.

To go up, you will need to buy tickets. There can be quite a queue, especially if it is the weekend or public holidays. To avoid this, and the crowds, it is probably better to visit during the weekdays.

Tickets are RM30 for an adult (to-and-fro), although if you have a Malaysian identity card you can get a heavily discounted price of RM8.

The funicular railway has been recently upgraded in 2010, and are modern, sleek inclined air-conditioned trains that whizz up the Hill in super-fast time. In no time at all, you will arrive at the Upper Station.

George Town and the landmark KOMTAR building sticking out like a sore thumb. Butterworth and Bukit Mertajam lie across the channel.

The reward at the top is the spectacular view of the city of George Town below. On a clear day you can see the two bridges that link the island to the mainland, the town of Butterworth across the channel, as well as the two peaks of Bukit Mertajam in Seberang Perai ("Province Wellesley") and Gunung Jerai in neighbouring Kedah state.

After enjoying the view of the eastern coast of Penang, the next thing to do is to have a drink or a bite to eat at David Brown's on Strawberry Hill. Apparently the hill was where Francis Light, the "founder" of Penang, levelled the slope in order to plant strawberries, hence the name. 

Today there are no strawberries, but instead David Brown's Restaurant and Sky Terrace take pride of place on the hill.

The Sky Terrace.

The Sky Terrace located on the lower slope of Strawberry Hill has great views of the city while you relax with your choice of drink in hand.

David Brown's Restaurant.

Further up the hill is the restaurant proper, where you have lunch, afternoon tea or dinner amidst pleasant gardens. This colonial themed restaurant serves British fare plus a smattering of local Penang favourites.

David Brown’s Restaurant and Tea Terraces
 
Address: Strawberry Hill, Penang Hill, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +604-828 8337
Fax: +604-826 6337

Opens: 9am to 9pm daily

Coming down from Strawberry Hill, you come to the "town" centre with a small police station, clinic and post office. At the town square or "Dataran Bukit Bendera" are a few kiosks selling peanuts, henna tattoos or even posing with snakes. A old train from the original funicular railway stands in the centre of the square.

A revamped food court called "The Cliff Cafe" sits to one side of the square with "The Owl Museum" located on top. The Owl Museum is an owl-themed art and handicraft collection from all over the world.

Walking past the town centre, you will come to Halliburton Hill, where Bellevue bungalow built by William Halliburton, the first Sheriff of Prince of Wales Island (the old name of Penang) stands. Today the Bellevue is the only hotel on Penang Hill, and has its own Aviary and Ginger Gardens which is open to the public to visit.

Unfortunately the Gardens are unkempt and in need of freshening up. Also the sight of all the birds cooped up in cages may not be what many would like to see.

Other than the Aviary Gardens, the Hotel also has a restaurant with a panoramic view. Bellevue has only 12 rooms with prices starting from RM300.

Bellevue Hotel

Address: Bukit Bendera, 11300, Penang, Malaysia.
Tel: +604-829 9500/600
Fax: +604-829 2052

Heading back towards the town centre, steps lead up Gun Hill. At the top of the steps is an old cannon. A children's playground seems somewhat out of place up here. Beyond the playground is a Hindu Temple called the Sri Aruloli Thirumurugan Temple. The temple was founded in the 1800's and is dedicated to the Hindu deity Lord Murugan. The current building is in the southern Indian dravidian style.

Up more steps from the playground is a small mosque to cater for the local community.

Beyond the mosque is the Gate House, beyond which is Bel Retiro on Flagstaff Hill. Bel Retiro was the official residence for the Governor of Penang, and was first built in 1789. Unfortunately the public today cannot go beyond the Gate House as Bel Retiro still remains as government property.

View of Air Itam, the Penang Bridge and Pulau Jerejak.

Penang Hill remains one of the islands main tourist draws. While there is not a lot to do once you get up there, the ride up the funicular railway is an attraction in itself, and on a clear day, the views from the top of the hill alone are worth the price of the ticket.