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Saturday 3 November 2012

Fraser's Hill, Pahang

Fraser’s Hill is named after Louis James Fraser. Having failed in a venture at gold mining in Australia, he migrated in the 1890s to the Malay States to seek his fortune in tin mining. He operated a transport business using mules and bullocks to collect tin ore from miners along the Teras-Kuala Kubu route.

Initially, he lived in a bare humble dwelling in Teras, probably because of the relative ease with which provisions and machinery could reach Teras up river from the mouth of the Pahang river. Once the metalled road from Kuala Kubu was completed to the Gap at Semangkok pass, he moved his operations from Teras to the Gap. From the Gap he used a bridle path to go up to the site of actual mines on the hill. Eventually, he built a bungalow up on the hill and lived there.

However, the mines did not last long as the ore was quickly depleted and the Chinese miners and farmers mostly moved away. By that time, Bukit Fraser was the recognized name of the hill but Fraser himself had become only a legendary figure, having vanished without a trace into the jungle.

In 1917, the Bishop of Singapore and another clergyman on holiday in the Gap rest house trekked up the hill possibly hoping to find the vanished Fraser or the site of his bungalow. On his return to Singapore, he wrote a report to the High Commissioner to suggest that the area was eminently suitable for the development of a hill station.

From these humble beginnings, Fraser's Hill was developed as a highland retreat for the european community to get away from the heat and humidity of the lowlands of British Malaya. Today, Fraser's Hill still retains the colonial feel of a hill station, unlike the Cameron Highlands further north which has undergone rapid over-development and land clearing.

Being only 100 kilometres or so away from Kuala Lumpur, Fraser's is only a short drive away from the city. The drive up the hill from Kuala Kubu Bahru along narrow winding roads through thick verdant jungle is part of the Fraser's Hill experience.
After awhile twisting up the road you will eventually you will reach the Gap at Semangkok Pass. You can choose to press on down to Raub and central Pahang from the Gap or up to Fraser's Hill. An abandoned rest house stands at the Gap; refurbishment work stalled midway for no apparent reason. This used to be the spot where people had to wait, as the 8km road up to Fraser's Hill from here could only allow vehicles to go up or down in single file in one direction. Hence a solution was devised whereby cars could only ascend up the hill from the Gap at odd-numbered hours, and in even-numbered hours cars could only descend down the hill.

These days, the construction of a new road now allows cars to continuously go up to the top from the Gap via the old road and down from the hill via the new road. The landslide prone new road is however sometimes closed down indefinitely when the inevitable landslide occurs, resulting in a reversion to the old system of odd and even hours going up and down the hill using the old road.


As you reach the top of the winding narrow road, just after the top gate, you will come to an intersection to the right. This short road is called Mager Road after the Engineer responsible for the development of Fraser's Hill. Mager Road leads up the Selangor side of Fraser's Hill and passes the Selangor Sultan's residence as well as the pretty Kingwood, Arundel & Bunge and Richmond bungalows.

Richmond

Moving straight pass the intersection, you will cross the border into Pahang state and immediately reach the small hamlet of Fraser's Hill, marked by a small clock tower in the middle of a roundabout.

Clock Tower

The hamlet is so small, with just a couple of stores, a police station, a post office, a dispensary, a couple of hotels and a clubhouse overlooking the 9-hole golf course. Next to the Puncak Inn, is the small Tavern building; these days it houses a restaurant called Scott's Bar & Restaurant.

Scott's Bar & Restaurant

The Golf Course was designed and built by Frank Hemmant in 1925, and is believed to be the oldest highland golf course in Malaysia. Hemmant's name lives on in the name of the Hemmant Trail, which skirts the boundary of the Golf Course.

Frank Hemmant's Golf Course

Having looked at the small hamlet, you have the choice of staying at one of the hotels there, either the Puncak Inn or the Shahzan. Elsewhere in the hills, you have also the monstrous Fraser's Silverpark located on the top of the hill overlooking the golf course or the Fraser's Pine Resort down Quarry Road. However if you really want that Highland experience, you have to forget all these big nondescript 3-star hotels and go for the bungalow experience.

Colonial Bungalows


The Fraser's Hill Development Corporation which runs the Puncak Inn, also operates the following cottages:

Cicely (Kuantan)
Hollebeke (Cini)
Cottage (Bentong)

The names in bold are the original names of the bungalows, with the ones in brackets are the new politically correct local names.

Highlands Resthouse Holdings Sdn Bhd ("HRH") is the operator of six colonial bungalows:

Dacres (Brinchang)
Kindersley (Raub)
Staff House (Jerantut)
Clifford (Jelai)
Wray (Temerloh)
Parr (Pekan)

A Singaporean company Aloha Resorts runs 2 bungalows on the Selangor side of the hill:

Richmond
Singapore House

Private companies own some of the other bungalows. Unfortunately you would have to know someone in those companies in order to book the accommodation and stay:

Whittington - Sime Darby
Muar Cottage - New Straits Times


Muar Cottage

High Pines - Boh Plantations
Arundel & Bunge - KL Kepong
Mallaig - Shell
Glen - KTMB
Tanglin - MMC

If all else fails, there is always the Smokehouse.

Ye Olde Smokehouse

Scones & Tea

Whether or not you chose to stay in The Smokehouse, having afternoon tea there is an essential part of the Fraser's Hill experience. You can chose to have your tea inside the house or weather permitting, on the terrace outside.



For your afternoon tea, what else but go for the Cream Tea. A pot of tea, with scones, clotted cream and jam as well as orange cake, chocolate cake and apple pie.




As you sit on the terrace sipping your tea, maybe you will be entertained by birdsong from the local birds or even paid a visit by a friendly squirrel.


Ye Olde Smokehouse

Address: Jalan Jeriau, 49000 Bukit Fraser, Pahang Darul Makmur, Malaysia.
Tel: +609-3622226

Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 8 am - 10pm
 
Trails and Walks

The main reason you go to Fraser's Hill is to experience the bracing cool air, to go on leisurely walks as well as possibly more challenging ones.

Walking along the asphalt roads are pleasant enough; but before the advent of the roads, bridle paths and trails were the way to get from one point to another. Nowadays most of these trails have fallen into disuse, but can still be walked if you are up to it.

Some of the major trails are:

Bishop Trail - (1500m) a.k.a.the Fig Trail. Named for the Bishop who was instrumental in the founding of Fraser's Hill as a colonial hill station, this trail connects the Bishop's House (now derelict) to the Cicely and Muar cottages.

Rompin Trail - (500m) a.k.a. the Liana Trail. A steep shortcut through the jungle for the Taman Sungai flat dwellers to get to the hamlet in the past.

Kindersley Trail - (750m) a.k.a. the Flowers Trail. Connects the Methodist Mission bungalow on top of a hill to the Aubyn corner on Lady Guillemard road.

Maxwell Trail - (1800m) a.k.a. the Palms Trail. Named after Sir George Maxwell, the British superintendant of Ulu Pahang. It was under his watch that the development of Fraser's Hill took place. The trail starts at the Cicely and Muar Cottages, before descending down treacherously to the Tamil School (built in 1923, oldest school on the Hill) at the tail-end of Quarry Road.

Hemmant Trail - (1000m) a.k.a.the Pitcher Plant Trail. Named after Frank Hemmant, who built the 9-hole Golf Course; this trails skirts along the golf course and was used by the Bishop of the Bishop's House to get to the Hamlet from his house.

Abu Suradi Trail - (500m) a.k.a. the Lichen Trail. Named after Abu Suradi, who in 1899, was the first man to obtain a mining lease on the Hill, where the current golf course is. Connects the Maybank lodge down to where the mosque is on Genting road.

Mager Trail - (1000m) a.k.a. the Wild Pepper Trail. Named after F.W.Mager, the Engineer who built and transformed Fraser's Hill from an abandoned mining camp to a charming hill station. The trail connects from the Maybank lodge down to a point near the Gap Road upper gate.

Pine Tree Trail - (5000m) a.k.a. the Mossy Forest Trail. A physically tough and challenging trail, which connects the Mallaig and High Pines bungalow to the summit of an adjacent peak.



Things To Do
Now really? Most people who go to Fraser's Hill do not go there to have action-packed itineraries. If you are really looking for nightlife, shopping, casinos, rides or theme parks, this is seriously NOT the place for you.

Fraser's Hill is a place for people to come and relax, curl up with a good book or have real and meaningful conversations with friends or family. You go for short walks and appreciate the cool mountain air and the jungle. You look at the wild orchids and pitcher plants growing on the trails, or you pull out your binoculars and go bird-watching.

At the most if you still want to be doing something, you are basically limited to:

Jeriau Falls - a waterfall 5 km away from the hamlet, along Jeriau road. A short walk down a path and some steep steps will bring you down to a stream which has been dammed to create a swimming enclosure. If you can stand the icy waters, you can actually go for a swim here.

Jeriau

Allan's Water - originally built as a reservoir, you can now go on a paddle boat here for RM6 for 15 minutes. Or feed the fish in the lake - there are huge catfish and carp swimming about. If you are lucky, you may even see a turtle pop out its head from the water.

Allan's Water
Operating Hours
Catfish in the Water
The Paddock - At this area along Valley Road, you can actually go horse-riding or do a spot of archery.



Golf - with a 9-hole golf course, golfing is an option if you really need something to while the time away.
The Sports Complex and Golf Club House.





4 comments:

  1. Hi, how do you book any of this privately owned cottages?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi!
    Thank you for the comprehensive descriptions of all the trails. They will help me decide which trail to bring my children on.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi!
    Thank you for the comprehensive descriptions of all the trails. They will help me decide which trail to bring my children on.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Let me know how it goes. This article was from 3 years ago, so things may have changed... good to get updates.

      Delete