Kemaman is the southern-most district of the east coast state of Terengganu. Sandwiched between Dungun district to the north and Pahang state to the south, Kemaman's administrative capital is Chukai, which means "tax" in Malay. This had probably much to do with Chukai's location at the estuary of the Kemaman river, whereby riverine traffic going upstream would be taxed or levied by those in power.
Indeed Kemaman is believed to have a much earlier history than Chukai itself which was founded in and around the 18th century. As early as the 2nd century B.C., the area was already known as "Kole", as noted by the Greek astrologer Ptolemy on one of his maps. Today the town of Chukai located to the north of the Kemaman river has become a bustling small town whereas Kuala Kemaman south of the river is still more of a fishing village.
Kuala Kemaman is not really a tourist destination, but it is an interesting stop-over if you are on the way to points further north. Approaching from the south along Route 3, take a right turn at the traffic lights after the mosque but before the bridge across the Kemaman river to Chukai town.
The road eventually ends at a T-junction with a coastal road. Turn left and follow it to its end at the Kemaman river estuary. On your right at the mouth of the river is a fish market, where the local fisherman sell their catch. Take a look at the fresh fish, just off the fishermen's boat or snap a few photographs.
Looking across to the other side of the river mouth, you will see a small beach area. This is Telaga Simpul, where there is an old well as recorded in the annals of the famous Malay traveller Munshi Abdullah.
Get back in your car and follow the small road that follows the Kemaman river a short way upstream. You will see row after row of timber jetties where the local fishermen tie down their boats after fishing. The whole effect is rather picturesque.
Indeed Kemaman is believed to have a much earlier history than Chukai itself which was founded in and around the 18th century. As early as the 2nd century B.C., the area was already known as "Kole", as noted by the Greek astrologer Ptolemy on one of his maps. Today the town of Chukai located to the north of the Kemaman river has become a bustling small town whereas Kuala Kemaman south of the river is still more of a fishing village.
Kuala Kemaman is not really a tourist destination, but it is an interesting stop-over if you are on the way to points further north. Approaching from the south along Route 3, take a right turn at the traffic lights after the mosque but before the bridge across the Kemaman river to Chukai town.
The road eventually ends at a T-junction with a coastal road. Turn left and follow it to its end at the Kemaman river estuary. On your right at the mouth of the river is a fish market, where the local fisherman sell their catch. Take a look at the fresh fish, just off the fishermen's boat or snap a few photographs.
Looking across to the other side of the river mouth, you will see a small beach area. This is Telaga Simpul, where there is an old well as recorded in the annals of the famous Malay traveller Munshi Abdullah.
Get back in your car and follow the small road that follows the Kemaman river a short way upstream. You will see row after row of timber jetties where the local fishermen tie down their boats after fishing. The whole effect is rather picturesque.
Eventually the road ends at a gravel road where the mangrove trees meet the river. Turn back and head back to the T-junction where you came from.
All along the road you will notice small roadside malay gerai (stalls) selling traditional snacks mostly made from seafood produce. Stop your car to sample some of these Kemaman specialties.
Keropok Lekor is an east coast specialty. Keropok is the malay word for "crackers" and keropok lekor is made from fish meat mixed with salt, sago flour and other ingredients and hand rolled into sausage form 6" to 10" long and immediately cooked. It is best eaten piping hot and dipped into chili sauce.There are two ways to cook keropok lekor, boiled or deep fried. If you are new to eating keropok lekor, go for the deep fried version, as the boiled one can be more fishy tasting and more of an acquired taste!
Keropok Keping is another type of crackers which is made from thinly slicing the fish sausage and drying the slices under the sun. This makes it last longer, and all you need to do is deep fry it before eating it hot. Unlike the chewy keropok lekor, keropok keping is crispy and makes a great afternoon snack.
Otak otak which actually means "brains" in english, may not have an appealing name, but rest assured you are not actually eating brains! The Kemaman version is made from fish slices which are ground and marinated in thickly coated spices, shallots, onions, ginger, chillies and wrapped in banana leaves. It is then grilled over a slow charcoal fire.
Satar is somewhar similar to otak-otak in being a concoction of fish, shallots, chillies and ginger. The difference is coconut is also added before it is shaped into a cone, wrapped in banana leaves, skewered with a stick before grilling over a charcoal fire.
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| Otak-Otak in the foreground, and Satar in the background. |
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| Keropok keping (top-left), Goreng Pisang i.e. banana fritters (top-right), Satar (bottom right) and Keropok Lekor (bottom left). |
Buy some of the local snacks and take it with you to nearby Teluk Mak Nik to eat on the beach. For some strange reason Teluk Mak Nik had been translated into English as Monica Bay. Who is this Monica or Mak Nik, you say? No idea!
From March to October, green turtles have been known to come ashore at night to lay their eggs on this beach.
Surprising Kemaman!
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