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Monday 20 May 2013

Leaning Tower of Teluk Intan, Perak

Teluk Intan is the third largest town in Perak state and the capital of Hilir Perak district. Surrounded on three sides by a bend in the Perak river, Teluk Intan's location close to the mouth of the Perak river made it an excellent location for a settlement.

The origins of Teluk Intan begins in 1528, when remnants of the Malaccan sultanate under the leadership of Muzaffar Shah, the son of the last Sultan of Malacca, came to the area and established the new Sultanate of Perak.

In the early 19th century, a beautiful Mandailing widow called Mak Intan came from Sumatera to trade with the Perak locals. Eventually the area where she came to trade became known as "Teluk Mak Intan" or "Mak Intan's Bay".

Teluk Mak Intan remained the seat of the Sultanate of Perak until 1877, when the court moved to Kuala Kangsar further north. In 1882, the British, who had been exerting their influence over the Perak Sultanate since 1874 via the British Resident J.W.W.Birch, renamed the town "Teluk Anson" after the Lieutenant-Governor of Penang (1867-1882), Sir Archibald Edward Anson.

100 years later, in 1982 and in conjunction with the town's centenary the Sultan of Perak changed the name of Teluk Anson back to Teluk Intan ("Diamond Bay"), in recognition of its original name.

Present day Teluk Intan is expanding rapidly outward from its original location encircled by the Perak river on three sides. However the core town area does have architectural relics from its colonial past, most notably the towns major landmark the "Menara Condong" or "Leaning Tower".


The tower was originally built by the contractor Leong Choon Cheong in 1885 to serve as a water tower for the town. Unfortunately, four years after completion, the water tower began to tilt, due to the presence of an underwater stream, hence earning it the name of "leaning tower".

The tower itself is only 25 metres high, with 110 steps upwards. Designed to look like a chinese pagoda, from the outside it looks like it has 8 storeys, but it is actually only three storeys high. 

In 1894, a clock designed by J.W. Benson-Ludgathy was brought in from London and installed on the tower. Today, the tower no longer serves as a water tower, but still acts as a clock tower and tourist landmark for the town.

Recently, the area around the leaning tower has been paved over with bricks to act as a plaza. The contractor Leong Choon Cheong, has been immortalised in the name of the main street Jalan Ah Cheong ("Cheong's road") in the centre of town.


The leaning tower can be visited by tourists from 8am to 5pm from Tuesday to Friday. On Saturday, Sundays and public holidays, it is open from 9am to 6pm. It is closed on Monday.


On the ground floor is what appears to be a well. Some old photographs of the leaning tower adorn the walls. A narrow winding staircase leads up to the next level.


 The mid level of the tower is empty. Another staircase leads up to the top floor.


At the top floor, you can look up and see the remains of the old unused water tank above you.


At this top level, you can squeeze outside into the encircling platform for a 360 degree view of Teluk Intan town. You will see a biscuit shop opposite the road.


This is the "Sin Guan Tin" biscuit shop, where you can buy locally made chinese biscuits and other snacks. There is another family run biscuit enterprise called "Sin Joo Heong" elsewhere in town, with is famous tiger-head symbol.


"Tau Sar Peah" is a type of chinese biscuit made of flour, salt, oil, sugar and green mung beans. One of the specialties of Teluk Intan.


A visit to Teluk Intan to see the leaning tower is not really a must-do itinerary, but if you are in the area, it is worth a stop-over, coupled with a food break to sample the local delicacies.

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